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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS);faqs.174 You will maybe note that there are no dairy products in my recipe -- that's because I'm allergic to them. You could easily replace the soy milk powder with the cow equivalent, but then you'd definitely have to include some maltodextrin (my soy drink already has some in it). I plan to replace about half the honey with maltodextrin when I find a local source. If you prefer cocoa to carob, you can easily substitute. C = 250 ml cup, T = 15 ml tablespoon 1 C Oat Bran 1/2 C Toasted Sunflower and/or Sesame seeds, ground (I use a food processor) 1/2 C Soy Milk Powder (the stuff I get has 37% maltodextrin, ~20% dextrose*) 1/2 C Raisins 2T Carob Powder Mix well, then add to 1/2 C Brown Rice, Cooked and Minced (Using a food processor again) 1/2 C Peanut Butter (more or less, depending on consistency) 1/2 C Honey (I use clear, runny stuff, you may need to warm if it's thicker and/or add a little water) Stir and knead (I knead in more Oat Bran or Rolled Oats) until thoroughly mixed. A cake mixer works well for this. The bars can be reasonably soft, as a night in the fridge helps to bind it all together. Roll or press out about 1cm thick and cut. Makes about 16, the size I like them (approx 1cm x 1.5cm x 6cm). * Can't remember exact name, dextrose something) --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Powerbars (John McClintic johnm@hammer.TEK.COM) Have you ever watched a hummingbird? Think about it! Hummingbirds eat constantly to survive. We lumpish earthbound creatures are in no position to imitate this. Simply, if we overeat we get fat. There are exceptions: those who exercise very strenuously can utilize - indeed, actually need - large amounts of carbohydrates. For example, Marathon runners "load" carbohydrates by stuffing themselves with pasta before a race. On the flip side Long-distance cyclists maintain their energy level by "power snacking". With reward to the cyclist and their need for "power snacking" I submit the following "power bar" recipe which was originated by a fellow named Bill Paterson. Bill is from Portland Oregon. The odd ingredient in the bar, paraffin, is widely used in chocolate manufacture to improve smoothness and flowability, raise the melting point, and retard deterioration of texture and flavor. Butter can be used instead, but a butter-chocolate mixture doesn't cover as thinly or smoothly. POWER BARS ---------- 1 cup regular rolled oats 1/2 cup sesame seed 1 1/2 cups dried apricots, finely chopped 1 1/2 cups raisins 1 cup shredded unsweetened dry coconut 1 cup blanched almonds, chopped 1/2 cup nonfat dry milk 1/2 cup toasted wheat germ 2 teaspoons butter or margarine 1 cup light corn syrup 3/4 cup sugar 1 1/4 cups chunk-style peanut butter 1 teaspoon orange extract 2 teaspoons grated orange peel 1 package (12 oz.) or 2 cups semisweet chocolate baking chips 4 ounces paraffin or 3/4 cup (3/4 lb.) butter or margarine Spread oats in a 10- by 15-inch baking pan. Bake in a 300 degree oven until oats are toasted, about 25 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent scorching. Meanwhile, place sesame seed in a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat. Shake often or stir until seeds are golden, about 7 minutes. Pour into a large bowl. Add apricots, raisins, coconut, almonds, dry milk, and wheat germ; mix well. Mix hot oats into dried fruit mixture. Butter the hot backing pan; set aside. In the frying pan, combine corn syrup and sugar; bring to a rolling boil over medium high heat and quickly stir in the peanut butter, orange extract, and orange peel. At once, pour over the oatmeal mixture and mix well. Quickly spread in buttered pan an press into an even layer. Then cover and chill until firm, at least 4 hours or until next day. Cut into bars about 1 1/4 by 2 1/2 inches. Combine chocolate chips and paraffin in to top of a double boiler. Place over simmering water until melted; stir often. Turn heat to low. Using tongs, dip 1 bar at a time into chocolate, hold over pan until it stops dripping (with paraffin, the coating firms very quickly), then place on wire racks set above waxed paper. When firm and cool (bars with butter in the chocolate coating may need to be chilled), serve bars, or wrap individually in foil. Store in the refrigerator up to 4 weeks; freeze to store longer. Makes about 4 dozen bars, about 1 ounce each. Per piece: 188 cal.; 4.4 g protein; 29 g carbo.; 9.8 g fat; 0.6 mg chol.; 40 mg sodium. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Calories burned by cycling (Jeff Patterson jpat@hpsad.sad.hp.com) The following table appears in the '92 Schwinn ATB catalog which references Bicycling, May 1989: --------- Speed (mph) 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 Rider Weight Calories/Hr 110 293 348 404 448 509 586 662 120 315 375 437 484 550 634 718 130 338 402 469 521 592 683 773 140 360 430 502 557 633 731 828 150 383 457 534 593 675 779 883 160 405 485 567 629 717 828 938 170 427 512 599 666 758 876 993 180 450 540 632 702 800 925 1048 190 472 567 664 738 841 973 1104 200 495 595 697 774 883 1021 1159 (flat terrain, no wind, upright position) =========================================================================== Frames Frame Stiffness (Bob Bundy bobb@ico.isc.com) As many of you rec.bicycles readers are aware, there have been occasional, sometimes acrimonious, discussions about how some frames are so much stiffer than others. Cannondale frames seem to take most of the abuse. The litany of complaints about some bike frames is long and includes excessive wheel hop, numb hands, unpleasant ride, broken spokes, pitted headsets, etc. I was complaining to a friend of mine about how there was so much ranting and raving but so little empirical data - to which he replied, "Why don't you stop complaining and do the measurements yourself?". To that, I emitted the fateful words, "Why not, after all, how hard can it be?". Following some consultation with Jobst and a few other friends, I ran the following tests: The following data were collected by measuring the vertical deflection at the seat (ST), bottom bracket (BB) and head tube (HT) as a result of applying 80lb of vertical force. The relative contributions of the tires, wheels, fork, and frame (the diamond portion) were measured using a set of jigs and a dial indicator which was read to the nearest .001 inch. For some of the measures, I applied pressures from 20 to 270 lbs to check for any significant nonlinearity. None was observed. The same set of tires (Continentals) and wheels were used for all measurements. Note that these were measures of in-plane stiffness, which should be related to ride comfort, and not tortional stiffness which is something else entirely. Bikes: TA - 1987 Trek Aluminum 1200, this model has a Vitus front fork, most reviews describe this as being an exceptionally smooth riding bike SS - 1988 Specialized Sirus, steel CrMo frame, described by one review as being stiff, hard riding and responsive DR - 1987 DeRosa, SP/SL tubing, classic Italian road bike RM - 1988 Cannondale aluminum frame with a CrMo fork, some reviewers could not tolerate the rough ride of this bike TA SS DR RM ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ST BB HT ST BB HT ST BB HS ST BB HT diamond 1 1 0 2 2 0 2 2 0 1 1 0 fork 3 11 45 3 9 36 4 13 55 3 10 40 wheels 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 tires 68 52 66 68 52 66 68 52 66 68 52 66 total 74 66 113 75 65 104 76 69 123 74 65 108 What is going on here? I read the bike mags and this net enough to know that people have strong impressions about the things that affect ride comfort. For example, it is common to hear people talk about rim types (aero vs. non-aero), spoke size, butting and spoke patterns and how they affect ride. Yet the data presented here indicate, just a Jobst predicted, that any variation in these factors will essentially be undetectable to the rider. Similarly, one hears the same kind of talk about frames, namely, that frame material X gives a better ride than frame material Y, that butted tubing gives a better ride that non-butted, etc. (I may have even made such statements myself at some time.) Yet, again, the data suggest that these differences are small and, perhaps, even undetectable. I offer two explanations for this variation between the data and subjective reports of ride quality. Engineering: These data are all static measurements and perhaps only applicable at the end of the frequency spectrum. Factors such as frequency response, and damping might be significant factors in rider comfort. Psychology: There is no doubt that these bikes all look very different, especially the Cannondale. They even sound different while riding over rough roads. These factors, along with the impressions of friends and reviews in bike magazines may lead us to perceive differences where they, in fact, do not exist. Being a psychologist, I am naturally inclined toward the psychological explanation. I just can't see how the diamond part of the frame contributes in any significant way to the comfort of a bike. The damping of the frame should be irrelevant since it doesn't flex enough that there is any motion to actually dampen. That the frame would become flexible at some important range of the frequency spectrum doesn't seem likely either. On the other hand, there is plenty of evidence that people are often very poor judges of their physical environment. They often see relationships where they don't exist and mis-attribute other relationships. For example, peoples' judgement of ride quality in automobiles is more related to the sounds inside the automobile than the ride itself. The only way to get a good correlation between accelerometers attached to the car seat and the rider's estimates of ride quality is to blindfold and deafen the rider (not permanently!). This is only one of many examples of mis- attribution. The role of expectation is even more powerful. (Some even claim that whole areas of medicine are built around it - but that is another story entirely.) People hear that Cannondales are stiff and, let's face it, they certainly *look* stiff. Add to that the fact that Cannondales sound different while going over rough roads and perhaps the rider has an auditory confirmation of what is already believed to be true. Unless anyone can come up with a better explanation, I will remain convinced that differences in ride quality among frames are more a matter of perception than of actual physical differences. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Frame materials [Ed note: I got this information from some of the books I have. People in the know are welcome to update this.] There are several materials that are used to make bicycle frames. They are: Mild steel - usually used in cheap department store bikes. Frames made from mild steel are heavy. High carbon steel - a higher quality material used in low end bikes. Reynolds 500 is an example. Steel alloy - lighter and better riding than high-carbon frames. Reynolds 501 and Tange Mangaloy are examples. Chro-moly - also called chrome-molybdenum or manganese-molybdenum steel. One of the finest alloys for bike frames. Reynolds 531 and Columbus SL and SP are some of the best known brands. Carbon fiber - high tech stuff. Made from space-age materials, frames made of this are very light and strong. Some problems have been seen in the connections between the tubes and bottom bracket, etc. Aluminum - Light frames, usually with larger diameter tubes. Cannondale is a well-known brand. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bike pulls to one side (Jobst Brandt jobst_brandt@hplabs.hp.com) For less than million dollar bikes this is easy to fix, whether it corrects the cause or not. If a bike veers to one side when ridden no-hands, it can be corrected by bending the forks to the same side as you must lean to ride straight. This is done by bending the fork blades one at a time, about 3 mm. If more correction is needed, repeat the exercise. The problem is usually in the forks although it is possible for frame misalignment to cause this effect. The kind of frame alignment error that causes this is a head and seat tube not in the same plane. This is not easily measured other than by sighting or on a plane table. The trouble with forks is that they are more difficult to measure even though shops will not admit it. It takes good fixturing to align a fork because a short fork blade can escape detection by most measurement methods. Meanwhile lateral and in-line corrections may seem to produce a straight fork that still pulls to one side. However, the crude guy who uses the method I outlined above will make the bike ride straight without measurement. The only problem with this is that the bike may pull to one side when braking because the fork really isn't straight but is compensated for lateral balance. This problem has mystified more bike shops because they did not recognize the problem. Sequentially brazing or welding fork blades often causes unequal length blades and bike shops usually don't question this dimension. However, in your case I assume the bike once rode straight so something is crooked --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Frame repair (David Keppel pardo@cs.washington.edu) (Disclaimer: my opinions do creep in from time to time!) When frames fail due to manufacturing defects they are usually replaced under warranty. When they fail due to accident or abuse (gee, I don't know *why* it broke when I rode off that last motorcycle jump, it's never broken when I rode it off it before!) you are left with a crippled or unridable bike. There are various kinds of frame damage that can be repaired. The major issues are (a) figuring out whether it's repairable (b) who can do it and (c) whether it's worth doing (sometimes repairs just aren't worth it). Kinds of repairs: Bent or cracked frame tubes, failed joints, bent or missing braze-on brackets, bent derailleur hangars, bent or broken brake mounts, bent forks, etc. A frame can also be bent out of alignment without any visible damage; try sighting from the back wheel to the front, and if the front wheel hits the ground to one side of the back wheel's plane (when the front wheel is pointing straight ahead), then the frame is probably out of alignment. * Can it be repaired? Just about any damage to a steel frame can be repaired. Almost any damage to an aluminum or carbon fiber frame is impossible to repair. Titanium frames can be repaired but only by the gods. Some frames are composites of steel and other materials (e.g., the Raleigh Technium). Sometimes damage to steel parts cannot be repaired because repairs would affect the non-steel parts. Owners of non-steel frames can take heart: non-steel frames can resist some kinds of damage more effectively than steel frames, and may thus be less likely to be damaged. Some frames come with e.g., replacable derailleur hangers (whether you can *get* a replacement is a different issue, though). Also, many non-steel frames have steel forks and any part of a steel fork can be repaired. Note: For metal frames, minor dents away from joints can generally be ignored. Deep gouges, nicks, and cuts in any frame may lead to eventual failure. With steel, the failure is generally gradual. With aluminum the failure is sometimes sudden. Summary: if it is steel, yes it can be repaired. If it isn't steel, no, it can't be repaired. * Who can do it? Bent derailleur hangers can be straightened. Indexed shifting systems are far more sensitive to alignment than non-indexed. Clamp an adjustable wrench over the bent hanger and yield the hanger gently. Leave the wheel bolted in place so that the derailleur hanger is bent and not the back of the dropout. Go slowly and try not to overshoot. The goal is to have the face of the hanger in-plane with the bike's plane of symmetry. Just about any other repair requires the help of a shop that builds frames since few other shops invest in frame tools. If you can find a shop that's been around for a while, though, they may also have some frame tools. * Is it worth it? The price of the repair should be balanced with * The value of the bicycle * What happens if you don't do anything about the damage * What would a new bike cost * What would a new frame cost * What would a used bike cost * What would a used frame cost * What is the personal attachment If you are sentimentally attached to a frame, then almost any repair is worth it. If you are not particularly attached to the frame, then you should evaluate the condition of the components on the rest of the bicycle. It may be cheaper to purchase a new or used frame or even purchase a whole used bike and select the best components from each. For example, my most recent reconstruction looked like: * Bike's estimated value: $300 * Do nothing about damage: unridable * Cost of new bike: $400 * Cost of new frame: $250+ * Cost of used bike: $200+ * Cost of used frame: N/A * Cost of repair: $100+ * Personal attachment: zip Getting the bike on the road again was not a big deal: I have lots of other bikes, but I *wanted* to have a commuter bike. Since I didn't *need* it, though, I could afford to wait a long time for repairs. The cost of a new bike was more than I cared to spend. It is hard to get a replacement frame for a low-cost bicycle. I did a good bit of shopping around and the lowest-cost new frame that I could find was $250, save a low-quality frame in the bargain basement that I didn't want. Used frames were basically the same story: people generally only sell frames when they are high-quality frames. Because the bike was a road bike, I could have purchased a used bike fairly cheaply; had the bike been a fat-tire bike, it would have been difficult to find a replacement. The cost of the frame repair included only a quick ``rattlecan'' spray, so the result was aesthetically unappealing and also more fragile. For a commuter bike, though, aesthetics are secondary, so I went with repair. There is also a risk that the `fixed' frame will be damaged. I had a frame crack when it was straightened. I could have had the tube replaced, but at much greater expense. The shop had made a point that the frame was damaged enough that it might crack during repair and charged me 1/2. I was able to have the crack repaired and I still ride the bike, but could have been left both out the money and without a ridable frame. * Summary Damaged steel frames can always be repaired, but if the damage is severe, be sure to check your other options. If the bicycle isn't steel, then it probably can't be repaired. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Frame Fatigue (John Unger junger@rsg1.er.usgs.gov) I think that some of the confusion (and heat...) on this subject arises because people misunderstand the term fatigue and equate it with some sort of "work hardening" phenomena. By definition, metal fatigue and subsequent fatique failure are well-studied phenomena that occur when metal (steel, aluminum, etc.) is subjected to repeated stresses within the _elastic_ range of its deformation. Elastic deformation is defined as deformation that results in no permanent change in shape after the stess is removed. Example: your forks "flexing" as the bike rolls over a cobblestone street. (an aside... The big difference between steel and aluminum as a material for bicycles or anything similar is that you can design the tubes in a steel frame so that they will NEVER fail in fatigue. On the other hand, no matter how over-designed an aluminum frame is, it always has some threshold in fatigue cycles beyond which it will fail.) This constant flexing of a steel frame that occurs within the elastic range of deformation must not be confused with the permanent deformation that happens when the steel is stressed beyond its elastic limit, (e. g., a bent fork). Repeated permanent deformation to steel or to any other metal changes its strength characteristics markedly (try the old "bend a paper clip back and forth until it breaks" trick). Because non-destructive bicycle riding almost always limits the stresses on a frame to the elastic range of deformation, you don't have to worry about a steel frame "wearing out" over time. I'm sorry if all of this is old stuff to the majority of this newsgroup's readers; I just joined a few months ago. I can understand why Jobst might be weary about discussing this subject; I can remember talking about it on rides with him 20 years ago.... =========================================================================== Injuries Road Rash Cures (E Shekita shekita@provolone.cs.wisc.edu) [Ed note: This is a condensation of a summary of cures for road rash that Gene posted.] The July 1990 issue of Bicycle Guide has a decent article on road rash. Several experienced trainers/doctors are quoted. They generally recommended: - cleaning the wound ASAP using an anti-bacterial soap such as Betadine. Showering is recommended, as running water will help flush out dirt and grit. If you can't get to a shower right away, at the very least dab the wound with an anti-bacteria solution and cover the wound with a non-stick telfa pad coated with bactrin or neosporin to prevent infection and scabbing. The wound can then be showered clean when you get home. It often helps to put an ice bag on the wound after it has been covered to reduce swelling. - after the wound has been showered clean, cover the wound with either 1) a non-stick telfa pad coated with bactrin or neosporin, or 2) one of the Second Skin type products that are available. If you go the telfa pad route, daily dressing changes will be required until a thin layer of new skin has grown over the wound. If you go the Second Skin route, follow the directions on the package. The general consensus was that scabbing should be prevented and that the Second Skin type products were the most convenient -- less dressing changes and they hold up in a shower. (Silvadene was not mentioned, probably because it requires a prescription.) It was pointed out that if one of the above treatments is followed, then you don't have to go crazy scrubbing out the last piece of grit or dirt in the wound, as some people believe. This is because most of the grit will "float" out of the wound on its own when a moist dressing is used. There are now products that go by the names Bioclusive, Tegaderm, DuoDerm, Op-Site, Vigilon, Spenco 2nd Skin, and others, that are like miracle skin. This stuff can be expensive ($5 for 8 3x4 sheets), but does not need to be changed. They are made of a 96% water substance called hydrogel wrapped in thin porous plastic. Two non-porous plastic sheets cover the hydrogel; One sheet is removed so that the hydrogel contacts the wound and the other non-porous sheet protects the wound. These products are a clear, second skin that goes over the cleaned (ouch!) wound. They breathe, are quite resistant to showering, and wounds heal in around 1 week. If it means anything, the Olympic Training Center uses this stuff. You never get a scab with this, so you can be out riding the same day, if you aren't too sore. It is important when using this treatment, to thoroughly clean the wound, and put the bandage on right away. It can be obtained at most pharmacies. Another possible source is Spenco second skin, which is sometimes carried by running stores and outdoor/cycling/ stores. If this doesn't help, you might try a surgical supply or medical supply place. They aren't as oriented toward retail, but may carry larger sizes than is commonly available. Also, you might check with a doctor, or university athletic department people. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Knee problems (Roger Marquis marquis@well.sf.ca.us) As the weather becomes more conducive to riding and the racing season gets going and average weekly training distances start to climb a few of us will have some trouble with our knees. Usually knee problem are caused by one of four things: 1) Riding too hard, too soon. Don't get impatient. It's going to be a long season and there's plenty of time to get in the proper progression of efforts. Successful cycling is a matter of listening to your body. When you see riders burning out, hurting themselves and just not progressing past a certain point you can be fairly certain that it is because they are not paying enough attention to what their body is telling them. 2) Too many miles. Your body is not a machine. It cannot be expected to take whatever miles you feel compelled to ride without time to grow and adapt. If you keep this in mind whenever you feel like increasing your average weekly mileage by more than forty miles over two or three weeks you should have no problems. 3) Low, low rpms (also excess crank length). Save those big ring climbs and big gear sprints for later in the season. This is the time of year to develop fast twitch muscle fibers. That means spin, spin, spin. You don't have to spin all the time but the effort put into small gear sprints and high rpm climbing now will pay off later in the season. 4) Improper position on the bike. Unfortunately most bicycle salespeople in this country have no idea how to properly set saddle height. The most common error being to set it too low. This is very conducive to developing knee problems because of the excessive bend at the knee when the pedal is at, and just past, top dead center. Make sure your seat and cleats are adjusted properly by following the adjustment procedures found elsewhere. If after all this you're still having knee problems: 1) Check for leg length differences both below and above the knee. If the difference is between 2 and 8 millimeters you can correct it by putting spacers under one cleat. If one leg is shorter by more than a centimeter or so you might experiment with a shorter crank arm on the short leg side. 2) Use shorter cranks. For some riders this helps keep pedal speed up and knee stress down. I'm 6 ft. 1/2 in. and I ride 170mm cranks for most of the season. 3) Try the Fit-Kit R.A.D. cleat alignment device and/or a rotating type cleat/pedal like the Time pedal. 4) Cut way back on mileage and intensity (This is a last resort for obvious reasons). Sometimes a prolonged rest is the only way to regain full functionality and is usually required only if you try to "train through" any pain. Xref: bloom-picayune.mit.edu bit.admin:2 news.answers:4342 Path: bloom-picayune.mit.edu!enterpoop.mit.edu!linus!agate!usenet.ins.cwru.edu!neoucom.edu!news.ysu.edu!psuvm!auvm!jim Newsgroups: bit.admin,news.answers Subject: bit.** Newsgroup List Supersedes: <92307.105317JIM@auvm.american.edu> Organization: The American University - University Computing Center Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1992 17:47:23 EST Expires: 10 Jan 1993 00:00:00 GMT Followup-To: bit.admin Approved: jim@american.edu From: Jim McIntosh <jim@american.edu> Message-ID: <92336.174723JIM@auvm.american.edu> Lines: 183 Archive-name: bit/bitlist Last-modified: 02 November 1992 Bit --- "bit" is a collection of newsgroups which are being distributed by a collection of sites that choose to carry them. The "bit" newsgroups are redistributions of the more popular BitNet LISTSERV mailing lists. 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